30 April - 8 June: Climbing Everest

The expedition set up Base Camp at the foot of the glacier, the huge river of ice which flowed from Everest, and Beetham photographed daily activities. The pack animals were sent back to the Rongbuk Monastery as from now on all loads were to be carried by Tibetan and Nepalese porters.

The British climbers and a corresponding group of lead Sherpas posed in front of their respective shelters. The combined teams worked hard to establish further camps up the glacier, getting ever closer to the mountain. All was going to plan until the weather suddenly deteriorated and they were struck by gale force winds and raging blizzards. Beetham was crippled by agonising pains in his legs and he struggled to play an active role. After a series of setbacks and disasters moral struck rock bottom.

Norton re-established order by arranging for the Sherpas to receive a special blessing from the chief Lama at Rongbuk. Camp 4 was eventually pitched on the North Col of the mountain from where they made two summit attempts. Norton and Somervell got to within 1000 feet of the summit before they were forced to turn back. Four days later Mallory and Irvine were spotted high on the North-east Ridge but then disappeared into the cloud. They were never seen again.

A black and white photograph of a mountainous landscape. In the foreground, several tents are pitched on rocky terrain, forming a base camp. The middle ground features rugged, barren land, while the background showcases towering, snow-capped mountains under a clear sky.

30 April - 8 June: Climbing Everest

A black and white photograph of a mountainous landscape. In the foreground, several tents are pitched on rocky terrain, forming a base camp. The middle ground features rugged, barren land, while the background showcases towering, snow-capped mountains under a clear sky.

The expedition set up Base Camp at the foot of the glacier, the huge river of ice which flowed from Everest, and Beetham photographed daily activities. The pack animals were sent back to the Rongbuk Monastery as from now on all loads were to be carried by Tibetan and Nepalese porters.

The British climbers and a corresponding group of lead Sherpas posed in front of their respective shelters. The combined teams worked hard to establish further camps up the glacier, getting ever closer to the mountain. All was going to plan until the weather suddenly deteriorated and they were struck by gale force winds and raging blizzards. Beetham was crippled by agonising pains in his legs and he struggled to play an active role. After a series of setbacks and disasters moral struck rock bottom.

Norton re-established order by arranging for the Sherpas to receive a special blessing from the chief Lama at Rongbuk. Camp 4 was eventually pitched on the North Col of the mountain from where they made two summit attempts. Norton and Somervell got to within 1000 feet of the summit before they were forced to turn back. Four days later Mallory and Irvine were spotted high on the North-east Ridge but then disappeared into the cloud. They were never seen again.

Item 1 of 17
A black and white historical photograph depicting a vast, open valley surrounded by mountain ranges. In the foreground, a group of individuals on horseback is visible, traversing the flat terrain. The middle ground is dotted with numerous dark figures that could be animals or people, spread out across the valley floor. The background shows the towering mountains with their rugged slopes extending into the distance under a light sky, suggesting a remote and possibly untamed landscape.

Arriving at Base Camp

Arriving at Base Camp

A black and white photograph of a mountainous landscape. In the foreground, several tents are pitched on rocky terrain, forming a base camp. The middle ground features rugged, barren land, while the background showcases towering, snow-capped mountains under a clear sky.

Base Camp

Base Camp

A group of yaks in a mountainous terrain. The foreground features one yak with a noticeable load on its back, likely indicating the use of these animals for carrying goods. The background includes several other yaks and rugged mountain peaks.

Yaks at Base Camp

Yaks at Base Camp

Two black and white photographs placed side by side, featuring an individual interacting with wooden crates in both scenes. The person’s face is obscured by a rectangular censor bar. In the left photo, the individual appears to be lifting or moving a crate among many similar crates, possibly indicating manual labor or logistics work. In the right photo, the individual is standing next to a stack of crates, holding one crate open and examining its contents.

Edward Shebbeare organising the stores

Edward Shebbeare organising the stores

A black and white photograph of a person sitting outside a tent, surrounded by rocky terrain. The person is wearing sunglasses and appears to be engaged in an activity with their hands, possibly related to the items hanging on a line stretched between two poles.

Andrew Irvine adjusting oxygen cylinders

Andrew Irvine adjusting oxygen cylinders

A group of individuals in outdoor attire sit and stand in front of a tent

Left to right on back row: Andrew Irvine, George Mallory, Edward Norton, Noel Odell, John MacDonald. Left to right on front row: Edward Shebbeare, Geoffrey Bruce, Howard Somervell, Bentley Beetham

Left to right on back row: Andrew Irvine, George Mallory, Edward Norton, Noel Odell, John MacDonald. Left to right on front row: Edward Shebbeare, Geoffrey Bruce, Howard Somervell, Bentley Beetham

A group of individuals in outdoor attire stand and sit around two tents on rocky terrain

Sherpa group portrait at Base Camp

Sherpa group portrait at Base Camp

Two black and white photographs show individuals in heavy clothing gathered around an object on the ground, with boxes and bags in a barren, rocky landscape

Andrew Irvine teaching Sherpas how to use a primus stove

Andrew Irvine teaching Sherpas how to use a primus stove

A panoramic view of a mountain range with snow-covered peaks and ridges, featuring rugged terrain and glacial activity in the foreground.

Pumori and the Western Glacier

Pumori and the Western Glacier

A group of individuals in a rocky, mountainous terrain, some carrying loads and others near pack animals.

Yak dung used for cooking fires at Base Camp

Yak dung used for cooking fires at Base Camp

Two individuals outdoors, one seated and the other standing behind, appear to be cutting or styling hair, with a mountainous background and tents visible.

Geoff Bruce cutting Edward Norton's hair

Geoff Bruce cutting Edward Norton's hair

A black and white photo of a campsite with one person sitting at a table with various objects, a tent to the left, in a barren landscape.

Medical Officer Richard Hingston at Base Camp

Medical Officer Richard Hingston at Base Camp

A black and white photo of a base camp with several tents in the foreground, set against towering, snow-capped mountains.

Camp 1 on the East Rongbuk Glacier

Camp 1 on the East Rongbuk Glacier

A black and white photo of a mountainous landscape with two tents in the foreground and several individuals near the tents, set against a prominent mountain peak.

Camp 1 on the East Rongbuk Glacier

Camp 1 on the East Rongbuk Glacier

Two black and white photographs: the top shows individuals in rocky terrain with mountains in the background; the bottom shows two people near a stack of labeled boxes.

Tibetan porters employed to carry loads as far as Camp 2

Tibetan porters employed to carry loads as far as Camp 2

A black and white photo of rocky terrain with a large tent in the foreground and several individuals walking among the rocks, with a mountain ridge in the background.

A group of Sherpas leaving Camp 1 carrying loads to Camp 2

A group of Sherpas leaving Camp 1 carrying loads to Camp 2

A black and white photo of a rugged mountain landscape with steep, rocky slopes and snow-covered peaks, showing detailed rock formations.

Earth pillars above Camp 1

Earth pillars above Camp 1

A black and white photo of individuals with backpacks and gear in a barren landscape with hills in the background, and tents visible on the left.
A black and white photo of individuals with backpacks and gear in a barren landscape with hills in the background, and tents visible on the left.

A party of Sherpas preparing to carry tents, oxygen equipment and supplies to Camp 2

A party of Sherpas preparing to carry tents, oxygen equipment and supplies to Camp 2

Having shouldered her allotted load she swung the child, swathed in its sheepskin clothes, on to the top and set off without more ado for Camp 2...

Everest Camp 2, 8 May 1924

The plan to ‘conquer’ Everest was organised along the lines of a military campaign, with the ultimate aim of assembling enough men and materials for one final battle against the mountain.

Camps were established at ever-increasing altitudes, the highest within striking distance of the summit. Life at Base Camp was reasonably comfortable but conditions gradually worsened as the climbers gained height.

Mountaineering equipment was basic. Suits made from windproof material were given to the climbers and high altitude Sherpas to be worn over layers of silk, cotton and wool, but they lacked hoods.

A variety of hats and scarves were worn but fur-lined leather flying helmets were found to be the most effective protection against the cold. Tinted snow goggles protected the eyes from the fierce glare of sunlight on snow but snow-blindness was still a problem. Leather boots lined with felt and shod with iron nails kept feet reasonably warm and helped with grip, whilst spiked iron crampons strapped to boots were designed to further assist climbers negotiating glacier ice.

Long-handled ice axes acted as walking sticks and tools for cutting steps in ice and snow and thin hemp ropes were used to form fixed rope routes on the mountain and to tether climbers and porters together on the most dangerous sections.

The Meade tents used at altitude were designed for alpine and polar conditions and provided life-saving shelter against vicious weather. The climbers were provided with two sleeping bags and a mattress, the Sherpas received a blanket and were only issued with a sleeping bag if they travelled to Camp 3 or higher.

Lack of oxygen at altitude and the debilitating effects this has upon the human body was recognised as a serious problem but the use of supplementary oxygen was a contentious issue. A breathing apparatus had been tested in 1922 with mixed results – oxygen most certainly aided performance but the rig was heavy and prone to mechanical failure.

Mallory and Irvine eventually chose to rely upon the oxygen system in their fateful attempt to reach the summit.

Item 1 of 18
A large glacier with a steep ice wall, surrounded by rocky mountain slopes. The contrast between dark rocks and bright ice is striking.

Camp 2 under the ice cliff

Camp 2 under the ice cliff

Four individuals in heavy clothing and hats, examining objects on the ground, possibly boxes or crates. A large glacier or snowfield and rugged mountains are visible in the background.

Checking equipment at Camp 2

Checking equipment at Camp 2

A group of individuals in a mountainous area with large ice formations in the background. One person in the foreground, with tents set up among rocky terrain.

A Tibetan woman delivering a box of supplies to Camp 2

A Tibetan woman delivering a box of supplies to Camp 2

A group of individuals in a snowy mountainous environment, possibly a base camp. Several tents are set up, and people are engaged in activities like carrying supplies. Snow-covered peaks are visible.

George Mallory eating at Camp 2 after a blizzard

George Mallory eating at Camp 2 after a blizzard

Towering ice formations on the left and rugged, sloping terrain on the right. A prominent snow-covered peak in the distance. Two figures in the middle ground, one with arms raised.

The Trough

The Trough

Several pitched tents in the foreground of a snowy mountainous landscape. Snow-covered peaks are visible in the background.

Camp 3

Camp 3

A mountainous landscape with prominent snow-covered peaks and glaciers. The foreground features a glacier with deep crevasses and seracs, highlighting the rugged terrain and dynamic ice movement.

Bad weather on Everest

Bad weather on Everest

A snowy mountainous landscape with various levels of elevation and texture. The terrain features ridges, crevasses, and trails or tracks crisscrossing the surface. The sky is overcast.

The North Col

The North Col

A group of individuals standing on rocky terrain, dressed in long robes and holding walking sticks.

Climbing Tigers

Climbing Tigers

Three individuals in a snowy landscape, with one standing and two sitting. Various pieces of equipment, including a sled, are on the ground. The image is monochrome.

Resting beneath the North Col

Resting beneath the North Col

A person sits on rocky ground, wearing a hooded garment and long socks. Their hands are clasped on their lap with a towel.

Namgya with frostbitten fingers

Namgya with frostbitten fingers

A group of climbers navigate a snowy mountain, facing large snow and ice formations. The image captures the harsh conditions and teamwork involved in the expedition.

Using a rope ladder to climb ice chimney up the North Col

Using a rope ladder to climb ice chimney up the North Col

A snowy landscape with large snow formations. A tent is set up on the snow, and one individual is sitting outside the tent. The environment appears harsh and remote.

Camp 4 on the North Col

Camp 4 on the North Col

A group of individuals in a snowy environment with tents set up. They are wearing heavy winter clothing and handling equipment.

At Camp 4 on the North Col

At Camp 4 on the North Col

A black and white photograph of a snow-covered mountain peak. The sky is overcast, with clouds or mist partially obscuring the mountain slopes.

Everest - the Northeast Ridge

Everest - the Northeast Ridge

A black and white photograph of a tent pitched on a steep rocky slope. The tent is secured with ropes. Multiple mountain ridges recede into the distance under a hazy sky.

Camp 5 or 6

Camp 5 or 6

A person sits on a rocky mountain slope, looking out over a rugged landscape with distant snow-capped peaks. They are wearing a backpack and appear to be resting or contemplating the view.

Edward Norton photographed by Howard Somervell on the North Face of Everest during their summit attempt

Edward Norton photographed by Howard Somervell on the North Face of Everest during their summit attempt

A mountainous snowy terrain with a steep incline. Ropes or cables run across the slope, and a person is visible in the distance, ascending the slope.

Edward Norton photographed by Howard Somervell climbing alone towards the summit of Everest

Edward Norton photographed by Howard Somervell climbing alone towards the summit of Everest

A mountainous landscape with sharp, snow-covered peaks and ridges. Clouds envelop parts of the mountains, adding a dramatic effect to the scene.

View west at the North Face of Everest at 28,000 feet

View west at the North Face of Everest at 28,000 feet

...he saw two black dots appear on a snow patch.. While he looked the leading dot approached a step in the ridge and appeared to climb it. He is not sure whether the second did so or not for just then the swirling mist closed in again… That was the last that was ever seen of Mallory and Irvine.

Everest Summit, 8 June 1924

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