Eternal Ascent
Guest curated by Stephen Livingstone
This exhibition marks the centenary of the 1924 Mount Everest Expedition, the first and ultimately tragic attempt to climb the highest mountain in the world.
The story is told from the perspective of one man, Bentley Beetham, using pictures selected from his large collection of photographs and glass lantern slides taken during course of the expedition and now held in the collections at Durham University.
Bentley Beetham
Bentley Beetham
At 29,031 feet (8849 metres) Mount Everest is the highest point on Earth. It was identified as such in 1856 and named after Sir George Everest, the man responsible for the mapping of India. He objected to the name, arguing that the Tibetan name Chomolungma was more appropriate.
Situated at the heart of the Himalayan mountain range Everest straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet. Until the early years of the 20th century both of these countries were closed to foreigners and consequently much of the history and culture of the region was steeped in mystery.
In 1904 a belligerent diplomatic mission to Tibet forced major concessions on behalf of the British government, including the right of access to the central Himalaya and Mount Everest.
In the years following the ending of the First World War the Royal Geographical Society working with the Alpine Club of London set out to organise a series of large scale expeditions to the mountain.
A viable route from Darjeeling in India was established in 1921 and in 1922 George Mallory, Teddy Norton and Howard Somervell climbed to 26,985 feet (8227 m) on Everest confirming that humans could survive at such rarified altitudes. An experimental climb with oxygen took George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce 300 feet higher still.
Recognised as the most talented climber of his generation, George Mallory was portrayed as the man destined to conquer the highest mountain in the world. When asked “Why climb Everest?” he famously replied, “Because it’s there”.
With fame came pressure, and guilt that he was needlessly risking his life whilst neglecting his wife and three young children. It was only at the very last moment that Mallory agreed to accompany the 1924 expedition.
The bulk of the funding came from selling the film and photographic rights to John Noel for £8000. Noel had made one of the first undercover explorations of the region before the war and had already produced a successful film documenting the 1922 attempt to climb the mountain, so he was well placed to understand the commercial potential of this new adventure.
Additional personnel were also appointed, including a thirty-eight year old school teacher from County Durham.
Bentley Beetham was born in Darlington and attended Barnard Castle School. He left at the age of sixteen to work in an architects office whilst also pursuing a passionate interest in the natural sciences in his spare time. His growing reputation as an ornithologist and wildlife photographer enabled him to return to the school to teach biology.
Beetham started rock climbing in the Lake District where he became friendly with Howard Somervell. The pair went on climb some of the major routes in the Alps and it was Somervell who recommended Beetham to the Mount Everest Committee.
Eternal Ascent
Guest curated by Stephen Livingstone
T
This exhibition marks the centenary of the 1924 Mount Everest Expedition, the first and ultimately tragic attempt to climb the highest mountain in the world.
The story is told from the perspective of one man, Bentley Beetham, using pictures selected from his large collection of photographs and glass lantern slides taken during course of the expedition and now held in the collections at Durham University.
Bentley Beetham
Bentley Beetham
At 29,031 feet (8849 metres) Mount Everest is the highest point on Earth. It was identified as such in 1856 and named after Sir George Everest, the man responsible for the mapping of India. He objected to the name, arguing that the Tibetan name Chomolungma was more appropriate.
Situated at the heart of the Himalayan mountain range Everest straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet. Until the early years of the 20th century both of these countries were closed to foreigners and consequently much of the history and culture of the region was steeped in mystery.
In 1904 a belligerent diplomatic mission to Tibet forced major concessions on behalf of the British government, including the right of access to the central Himalaya and Mount Everest.
In the years following the ending of the First World War the Royal Geographical Society working with the Alpine Club of London set out to organise a series of large scale expeditions to the mountain.
A viable route from Darjeeling in India was established in 1921 and in 1922 George Mallory, Teddy Norton and Howard Somervell climbed to 26,985 feet (8227 m) on Everest confirming that humans could survive at such rarified altitudes. An experimental climb with oxygen took George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce 300 feet higher still.
Recognised as the most talented climber of his generation, George Mallory was portrayed as the man destined to conquer the highest mountain in the world. When asked “Why climb Everest?” he famously replied, “Because it’s there”.
With fame came pressure, and guilt that he was needlessly risking his life whilst neglecting his wife and three young children. It was only at the very last moment that Mallory agreed to accompany the 1924 expedition.
The bulk of the funding came from selling the film and photographic rights to John Noel for £8000. Noel had made one of the first undercover explorations of the region before the war and had already produced a successful film documenting the 1922 attempt to climb the mountain, so he was well placed to understand the commercial potential of this new adventure.
Additional personnel were also appointed, including a thirty-eight year old school teacher from County Durham.
Bentley Beetham was born in Darlington and attended Barnard Castle School. He left at the age of sixteen to work in an architects office whilst also pursuing a passionate interest in the natural sciences in his spare time. His growing reputation as an ornithologist and wildlife photographer enabled him to return to the school to teach biology.
Beetham started rock climbing in the Lake District where he became friendly with Howard Somervell. The pair went on climb some of the major routes in the Alps and it was Somervell who recommended Beetham to the Mount Everest Committee.
What he lacked in experience Beetham amply made up in enthusiasm.
In addition his experience as a photographer would prove invaluable. He is photographed here with fellow expedition members George Mallory, Andrew Irvine and John Hazard during the sea voyage to India.
In March 1924 Bentley Beetham set out on an adventure of a lifetime – the quest to climb Everest.
The expedition began with the group travelling from Darjeeling to Jelup La from 26 - 31 March.
You can also find out more about the work we have done with Nepali communities in North East England as part of this project by clicking the button below.
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